
Why Keys Snap — and What Happens Inside the Lock
Keys break for several reasons: metal fatigue from years of daily use, a lock that has become stiff due to lack of lubrication, the wrong key being forced in a hurry, or a barrel that has started to seize up from general wear. Nightlatches — the spring-loaded rim locks common on most Fulham front doors — have a relatively narrow keyway, and when a key snaps in one, the broken piece often sits flush with or just inside the face of the cylinder, making it invisible from the outside. With a 5-lever mortice deadlock, the stub can travel deeper into the keyway before stopping. Euro cylinders on uPVC doors present a different challenge: the key turns the cam that drives the multipoint locking mechanism, so if the break happens mid-turn, the door can be left in a partially locked state that prevents both opening and closing. Each scenario calls for a different extraction approach, which is why general household tools — pliers, tweezers, bobby pins — rarely work and frequently make things worse by pushing the fragment deeper or scoring the internal pins and levers.
Understanding what has actually broken matters before any work begins. Our technicians assess which type of lock is fitted, whether the key broke flush with the face or deep inside the barrel, whether any pins or levers have been displaced, and whether the lock was functioning correctly beforehand. That assessment takes a matter of minutes but determines the safest extraction route and tells us whether the lock will be serviceable once the fragment is out or whether a lock change London visit is the more sensible outcome.





